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DwarfMy last post was about the new camera and the fun I've been having getting the best miniature shots out of it, using just the standard kit-lens that comes with it.  (The lens is a Nikon AF-S Nikor 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 GII ED - catchy name, eh?)


Anyway, this is what I've narrowed it down to, based on a compromise between maximum image quality, efficiency and repeatability.



Camera Setup


As you can see, I've removed the need for pretty much everything apart from the camera and the thing I'm trying to photograph.


Read on for details on the setup, and the camera settings



Key Features



  1. Small footprint
    The whole thing only takes up about 50cm x 25cm (20" x 10") of space, so is not only emminently portable but also doesn't take up much space on my messy desk.

  2. Repeatable
    The positions of the three tripod legs are marked (and currently "enforced" with Blu-Tak, soon something more permanent), and the white background and rear support are held up with little magnets (again, once the plan is final, I'll be whacking some glue around the place.)  Also, the white background has a little hole cut in it the exact size of a miniature base, so I can pop them in and take frequent progress photographs that all look identical.

  3. Efficient
    Because I'm using the camera directly attached to my PC using Nikon's Camera Control Pro (see my last post) I realised I could use this "reverse" setup.  The hole cut in the white background makes popping figures in there fast and consistent too

  4. Versatile
    Nothing is (currently) fixed in this rig, so if I'm taking shots of larger items, or squads of soldiers, I can move stuff around.  Also, as I now have the ML-L3 remote-control for the camera, I dont' even have to touch the PC. (Details below)


Camera Settings


I experimented with the camera a good bit to find a collection of settings that gave the results I wanted.  This pretty much boiled down to colour-reproduction (white-balance) and depth-of-field.


The Macro mode on the camera produces great results out-of-the-box, but the depth-of-field is very small, so even a small figure ends up with unsharp areas.  Experiment around a bit.  I ended up using manual mode with the following settings:



























Mode: M Manual 
Shutter-speed: 1/2 second  This is slow, so don't jog the desk or try this without a tripod
Aperture: f/20 Vary this a bit if you're getting fuzzy parts
Exposure compensation: -2/3 EV See my previous post
Flash: Front Sync The flash is up and set to Front Sync

I have also found that when I'm painting an entire squad of figures at once, and want step-by-step progress shots of them, the remote-control really speeds up the progress.  Just:

  • line up all the figures nearby somewhere

  • connect up the camera

  • fire up the remote control software (optional, this works just fine without it, this just saves having to copy the images afterwards)

  • Hold the remote control in one hand

  • simply drop in a figure, click the button, and keep swapping figures until you're done


Now a full set of images for 10 miniatures only takes about a minute, instead of 5.  That adds up!


Two things worth stressing:
Nikon ML-L3 Remote Control


  1. Buy a second battery!  Don't forget that while attached via USB, the camera is always on - it won't go into standby.  A spare EN-EL9 battery for the Nikon D40 is about £30, a lot cheaper than a mains adapter (~£100!)

  2.  The ML-L3 remote control!  Take pictures without having to keep touching the camera or fiddle with the self-timer.  Also great for those balance-it-on-a-rock-and-run-back-to-the-family moments.  Only about £13, so get one now!


Here are a couple of pictures of a Skink (not painted by me) taken on this rig:


Skink - FrontSkink - Rear

Last Updated on Thursday, 17 January 2008 02:45
 
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DwarfWell, it's not as dramatic as it sounds, but I've managed to get hold of a soft-lighting surround, a new camera stand and am using my shiny new Nikon D40 digital SLR camera that I'm still getting the hang of.


I've read a few of the articles on the web, and specific CoolMini, about photographing miniatures but was never very satisfied with the images I got with my previous camera (a Canon Digital Ixus 430), as despite acceptable results, they took a lot of setting up to get right, and several lights.  Repeating results took a long time, and a significant amount of setup time.

sample

The Camera


Nikon D40The camera I'm using is the entry-level "bridge" Nikon D40 digital SLR.


I'm no camera-expert, so I won't try and go into meaningless detail about the camera, but I will say that it's an absolute piece of cake to use, effortlessly taking great photos using the range of "auto" settings, but it's also been easy to start using the more advanced manual PSAM modes.


Ken Rockwell wrote a great review in great detail, so check out his site.

The Rig


Now for the good bit.  Previously I either just used a 2-metre slab of MDF perched on my armchair near a 300W halogen standard-lamp and hoped for the best, or used a setup similar to that in the next image...
Original setup

As you can see, it's quite a fiddly setup (that's the new camera though, I was using the Canon with this rig), due to several elements: 


  • Flourescent tube top-light - difficult to adjust as it's cheap and the hinge-screws don't hold well.  Takes a lot of space.



  • Halogen far-right light - wasn't always this far away, but it's a very intense, and very HOT light.  Don't want to be near this thing for any length of time.



  • Low-voltage flourescent bottom-light - this is fixed to the long-arm "tri-pod"* to provide an omni-directional light-source better than the Point-Of-View-Only flash on the little camera.



  • Obviously this needs setting up somewhere else which is cumbersome for transfering images, or has to be put away all the time so I can actually use the desk



Here's how it looks now:



Camera Setup


 Obviously, a much neater configuration!  No external lights required at all, just the flash.  This means I can use a simple tripod and can leave the cube setup where it is.

Camera Setup


*warning* I'm a "real-camera" novice, so the settings I've used are a mix of using what I've read online, guess-work, and getting some info from more camera-literate relatives.  If any settings seem weird or uneccessary to you, let me know - there's a good chance I just made it up!


  • I'm using the "Aperature-priority" (A) mode on the PSAM dial, so that I can adjust the depth-of-field for the item I'm photographing.  Some of the figures are "deep" enough that I can't get the whole thing in focus otherwise, and sometimes I don't want to.



  • I have set the Exposure Compensation to -0.7 (which is -2/3EV), on the advice of Ken Rockwell as there seems to be a slight tendency to over-expose the images otherwise.



  • I cranked the Aperture to f/5.6



  • If firing the camera manually, I always use the self-timer set to about 2 seconds.  This is because the rig is quite dark, so you'll get blurry images otherwise



  • The flash is up so will fire.  (I have also had success with some models using "Rear Curtain Slow", this is also known as "Rear Curtain Sync", and essentially causes the camera to open the shutter as if taking a picture in darker environments, but then fires the flash just before closing the shutter.)



The Software


The thing that makes all this easier than any setup I've had before is that I now use the great Nikon software Camera Control Pro.  This application allows you to completely control your camera from the PC.



Camera Control Pro


From here I can fiddle with the settings, take the photo and view the results, all from one little screen.  It automatically moves the image from the camera to the PC, and names it either sequentially or by date & time.


CCP also allows for automatic time-lapse photographs, so it should be possible to set it up pointing at the working surface of a decent painter, and get a "movie" of their process!  Set to perhaps 5-minutes interval should create some interesting results...

References


Last Updated on Sunday, 06 January 2008 01:41
 
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Compaq ML350Using the fantastic SSL Explorer it is possible to access your computer(s) from anywhere, securely and without having to install lots of software on the machine you're using. All you need while you're out-and-about is a web-browser! There's even a free version , so you can get enterprise-grade SSL very economically.


Here's how I installed SSL Explorer 1.0.0 RC17 Community Edition on a Ubuntu 7.10 Virtual Machine...



First, go and check out 3SP's website, there's lots of great information on there. I chose to use the Community Edition for Linux, because I


  1. Don't need any of the enterprise features (and don't have any money)

  2. am running Linux


To reiterate - Go To Their Website ! There's an awesome SSL-Explorer Administrator's Guide there with full instructions for Windows, Linux, compiling, administration, etc.

Prerequisites


Much of this needs admin-level access, so get that first
sudo su -

You'll need the following packages to make this work:

  • Ant [ant]

  • The Sun Java JDK [sun-java5-jdk] - There is a java6 version, but I've not tried that yet


So first of all install those (a whole load of additional dependencies will probably be install too):
apt-get install ant sun-java5-jdk

At this point, it's probably a good idea to upgrade to the latest packages
apt-get update
apt-get upgrade

Now download and extract the SSL Explorer source-code. You should probably get this from SourceForge instead of just copy'n'pasting my examples, so that you get the latest version.
cd /opt
wget http://ovh.dl.sourceforge.net/sourceforge/sslexplorer/sslexplorer-0.2.15_01-src.tar.gz
tar xzvf sslexplorer-1.0.0_RC17-src.tar.gz
cd sslexplorer-1.0.0_RC17

Fixing some quirks


First make sure you're compiling against java 1.5 by running the following command and selecting option 3 "/usr/lib/jvm/java-1.5.0-sun/jre/bin/java"
update-alternatives --config java

Next we need to build and install:
ant install

You should end at some messages about connecting to the system to set it up
[java] Starting installation wizard.....Point your browser to http://testbox:28080
[java]
[java] Press CTRL+C or use the 'Shutdown' option from the web interface to leave the installation wizard.
[java] .

You should be able to connect to it's real IP address if it has one, or it's hostname, such as http://testbox:28080 in my case, or for example http://192.168.0.1:28080.

Configuring SSL Explorer



  1. First create a new SSL certificate (or import your existing one if you have one)

  2. Choose an authentication method - I used the built-in one.

  3. Create an admin account. This will be used to create all the other roles and users

  4. Configure the webserver however you like. Probably best to leave the defaults

  5. Proxies, depends on your setup, mine I left off

  6. I did not enable the Enterprise features, because I've already tried them all. I strongly recommend you do (they can just be turned off again later to revert to "free" mode) as there is some great stuff in there!


At the end, you exit the installer in the web browser, and your command-prompt should also return.


Make sure that SSL Explorer is running as a system service by issuing this command:

ant install-service

This should end with a bunch of [exec] commands, followed by:
BUILD SUCCESSFULL
Total time: 26 seconds

And the wrapper needs to be made executable
chmod a+x sslexplorer/install/platforms/linux/x86/wrapper

You can now start the service manually by issuing the following command:
/etc/init.d/sslexplorer start

Now you should be able to access your new server at https://192.168.0.1/ or whatever IP or name it has!

The Big Login Problem


For some people it won't work after a reboot. You won't be able to log in to the web-interface. That sucks, doesn't it? Nevermind, the solution follows. Apparently it's all to do with conflicting character encoding, which is beyond me, so just do what I did and follow in the footsteps of Greater People (who luckily are locatable on the 3sp forums - but search first! Everything I got stuck on was already answered)
sudo su -
cd /opt/sslexplorer-1.0.0_RC17/sslexplorer
vim conf/wrapper.conf

Edit this file, by finding the line
#wrapper.java.additional.1=

And changing it to
wrapper.java.additional.1=-Dsun.jnu.encoding=UTF-8
wrapper.java.additional.2=-Dfile.encoding=
UTF-8

Also edit conf/system.properties and add the following line right at the end:
file.encoding=UTF-8

For some people the correct encoding appears to be "UTF-8" but if this doesn't work, try replacing that with ISO-8859-1.


Reboot and all should be fine. Incidentally, the wrapper.conf file is used when running as a service, and the system.properties when running manually. That's why you need to edit both, just in case ;)

Configuring SSL Explorer


This is a massive topic. Go and read the SSL-Explorer Administrator's Guide. No really, it's good.

Last Updated on Monday, 24 March 2008 02:26
 
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I've been playing around with Google Maps, just for a laugh really.


Here are some of the places I've been. Too many pins seems to make it a bit cluttered, I need to spread my visits around a bit more!  It is possible to use custom pin-images too, so I could create some smaller ones and use those.  (Not tried that, so it might just scale them up, no idea)


This is a map

Last Updated on Friday, 01 February 2008 18:46
 
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Compaq ML350I recently acquired an old Compaq ML350 server from work, and thought it might come in useful at home for something. Never one to need an actual requirement before getting new kit, I hastily (well, as hastily as possible with this heavy beast) took it home.It's been sitting under my stairs for a couple of months now, but as I've recently discovered the fantastic SSL Explorer, I thought I'd get the trusty ML350 configured as my secure-access host.


My first choice I had to make was on of Operating Systems. Windows Server would be the easy choice, as this is what the system came with, and so I knew it would work, however the licensing would be somewhat ambiguous (I can't recall if the license was OEM or company-owned, and it certainly wasn't Windows Server 2003) so I opted for a Linux distribution.


I've used a few different variants over the years, usually one of the big names like Red Hat, SUSE or Ubuntu, but in this case I went for Ubuntu 7.04 Server Edition. I've used this particular version fairly recently, so was pretty confident I could get it working.


Read on for details on how I got this trusty old Compaq ML350 to play nicely with Ubuntu 7.04...


(Oh, and this sucker is NOISY. Don't worry about that, we'll be able to calm all those fans down a bit later)

Compaq Ubuntu - Linux for Human Beings



The Spec


The server is a dual-processor Pentium-III 1GHz with 256Kb cache. It has 768Mb RAM, and four 18.2Gb hot-swappable disks mounted on a Compaq Smart Array 431 controller. Not blinding by today's standards...

Initial Preparation


First of all I deleted the Logical Drive that was setup on the RAID controller (accessed by pressing F8 when prompted at boot-up), this was both to easily (but not really securely!) delete any existing data on the disks, and also because previously it was set up with a slightly peculiar RAID scheme.

 


I set up the array as a pretty standard RAID-5 configuration mainly because the disks are fairly old, they were heavily used before (it was an Exchange server) and so I expect one of them could fail. This gives me 50.9Gb of usable disk space.

Ubuntu Setup


The system boots off a standard Ubuntu 7.04 Server CD with no problems, although after selecting "Install from CD" I do get the following error for a few seconds, but this can be safely (?) ignored. (That first number in the square brackets varies, so don't try and search the Internet for that bit)
[  394.803746] ..MP-BIOS bug: 8254 timer not connected to IO-APIC

I selected all the relevant options for languages and keyboards etc for my system (UK), I set my host-name, and setup soon proceeded to the disk partitioning.

 


For the disks, I simply selected "Guided - use entire disk". I was tempted to select the LVM option, but as there's not really much space for growth on this box, nor will I be using any software RAID, I thought it best not to complicate matters.


Setup detected and suggested the following disk to manage (the virtual disk that the controller presents to the Operating System):

/dev/ida/c0d0 -  54.6 GB Compaq Smart Array

And the partition configuration that Ubuntu suggested was a simple "data + swap":
partition #1 of /dev/ida/c0d0 as ext3

 



partition #2 of /dev/ida/c0d0 as swap


On the "software selection" screen I selected the LAMP option, as I know I'll be needing Apache, MySQL and PHP. I'll be adding the other bits and pieces I'll be needing later.

 


Now on my system, after rebooting it seems to run a few more startup tasks after the login-prompt appears. This means it's not obvious that it's waiting for a user name, because the bottom of the screen is just listing another startup step (/etc/rc.local). Press [Enter] and you'll see your trusty login prompt as usual.

Software


Sources


As a bare minimum, I also always add an Internet repository to the APT sources, and take out the CD source. I don't want to be prompted for CDs all the time!
sudo vim /etc/apt/sources.list

I comment out the "deb cdrom:" line, the Multiverse repository is selected by default already, so just leave that. I then updated the APT sources with
sudo apt-get update

And then upgrade any new packages with
sudo apt-get upgrade

A couple of critical utilities


These are needed for me to do almost any of the rest of this article.

 


These can be installed by typing in the following command, replacing "packagename" with whatever you want to install (the names are in square brackets)

sudo a pt-get install packagename


  • ssh server [openssh-server] to allow me to remotely administer the machine, and not have to juggle another keyboard and monitor.


Thanks for reading this far, I'll post more about silencing the turbines next time...

 

Last Updated on Thursday, 25 February 2010 09:40
 
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