Welcome

PDF Print E-mail

Compaq ML350I've been running various distributed grids for a while now, back in the day it was SETI@Home , then some Distributed.net, and now (to get some EasyNews credits ;) ) I've been checking out the World Community Grid.


Getting this up-and-running on most systems is very simple, just download and install the BOINC client. It does everything for you, getting and setting work-units etc.


The Linux version is also pretty straight-forward, WCG supply a simple sh script

sudo su -
mkdir /opt/boinc
cd /opt/boinc
wget http://boincdl.ssl.berkeley.edu/dl/boinc_5.8.16_i686-pc-linux-gnu.sh
sh ./boinc_5.8.16_i686-pc-linux-gnu.sh

As I don't have a graphical desktop installed, I can't use the manager supplied. Here's how to hook up to the WCG using the command-line client.


Log in to the WCG website with your username and password, and on the "My Profile" page you should see a "BOINC Account Key". Note that, you'll need it next.

cd /opt/boinc/BOINC
./boinc &
./boinc_cmd --project_attach http://www.worldcunitygrid.org your_account_key_here

You should see some output from boinc now to show that it's downloading the work units, and on the website under "Device Manager" you should see your new machine!


Issue the following command to stop the grid for now:

./boinc_cmd --quit

I put the command to run boinc in my /etc/rc.local file, I'll probably get around to creating proper init scripts at some point, but for now just put this in your /etc/rc.local file, just before the exit command:
cd "/opt/boinc/BOINC" && exec ./boinc -daemon $@

At any time, you can see what the client is doing by issuing
cd /opt/boinc/BOINC
sudo boinc_cmd --get_state

Last Updated on Wednesday, 12 September 2007 12:55
 
PDF Print E-mail

Compaq ML350Using the fantastic SSL Explorer it is possible to access your computer(s) from anywhere, securely and without having to install lots of software on the machine you're using. All you need while you're out-and-about is a web-browser!  There's even a free version , so you can get enterprise-grade SSL very economically.


Here's how I installed SSL Explorer Community Edition on my Ubuntu 7.0.4 box ...



First, go and check out 3SP's website, there's lots of great information on there. I chose to use the Community Edition for Linux, because I


  1. Don't need any of the enterprise features (and don't have any money)

  2. am running Linux


To reiterate - Go To Their Website ! There's an awesome SSL-Explorer Administrator's Guide there with full instructions for Windows, Linux, compiling, administration, etc.

Prerequisites


Much of this needs admin-level access, so get that first
sudo su -

You'll need the following packages to make this work:

  • Ant [ant]

  • The Sun Java JDK [sun-java5-jdk] - There is a java6 version, but I've not tried that yet


So first of all install those (a whole load of additional dependencies will probably be install too):
apt-get install ant sun-java5-jdk

Now download and extract the SSL Explorer source-code. You should probably get this from SourceForge instead of just copy'n'pasting my examples, so that you get the latest version.
cd /opt

mkdir sslexplorer

cd sslexplorer

wget http://ovh.dl.sourceforge.net/sourceforge/sslexplorer/sslexplorer-0.2.15_01-src.tar.gz

tar xzvf sslexplorer-0.2.15_01-src.tar.gz

cd sslexplorer-0.2.15_01

Next we need to build and install:
ant install

My install appeared to hang at after a message about FeedManager checking for updates, but those messages seem to have spammed out after the usual messages about how to connect to SSL Explorer.
You should be able to connect to it's real IP address if it has one, such as http://192.168.0.1:28080.

Configuring SSL Explorer



  1. First create a new SSL certificate (or import your existing one if you have one)

  2. Choose an authentication method - I used the built-in one.

  3. Create an admin account. This will be used to create all the other roles and users

  4. Configure the webserver however you like. Probably best to leave the defaults

  5. Proxies, depends on your setup, mine I left off

  6. I did not enable the Enterprise features, because I've already tried them all. I strongly recommend you do (they can just be turned off again later to revert to "free" mode) as there is some great stuff in there!


At the end, you exit the installer in the web browser, and your command-prompt should also return.

 


Make sure that SSL Explorer is running as a system service by issuing this command:

ant install-service

You can now start the service manually by issuing the following command:
ant start

Now you should be able to access your new server at https://192.168.0.1/ or whatever IP or name it has!

The Big Problem


It won't work after a reboot. You won't be able to log in to the web-interface. That sucks, doesn't it? Nevermind, the solution follows. Apparently it's all to do with the character encoding, which is beyond me, so just do what I did and follow in the footsteps of Greater People (who luckily are locatable using Google)

 


Search the net for "ssl explorer invalid credentials" for some info.


For the impatient, here's the quick-fix. This may differ for different configs, but it worked for me, and others, and should work for you if you're on a clean config like mine.

sudo su -

cd /opt/sslexplorer/sslexplorer-0.2.15_01/sslexplorer

vim conf/wrapper.conf

Edit this file, by finding the line
#wrapper.java.additional.1=

And changing it to
wrapper.java.additional.1=-Dsun.jnu.encoding=UTF-8

wrapper.java.additional.2=-Dfile.encoding=
UTF-8

Also edit conf/system.properties and add the following line right at the end:
file.encoding=UTF-8

For some people the correct encoding appears to be "UTF-8" but if this doesn't work, try replacing that with ISO-8859-1.

 


Reboot and all should be fine. Incidentally, the wrapper.conf file is used when running as a service, and the system.properties when running manually. That's why you need to edit both, just in case ;)

Configuring SSL Explorer


This is a massive topic. Go and read the SSL-Explorer Administrator's Guide. No really, it's good.

 

Last Updated on Thursday, 25 February 2010 09:39
 
PDF Print E-mail

000-assistant.jpgWell, as a little side-project from painting little miniatures, I thought I'd try to turn my hand to a diorama. As my "army" so far consists of Dwarves, and I got some ideas from a gaming-table in a Games Workshop in Oxford Street, I thought I'd create a mountain fortress for my Dwarven Cannon.


I've created a little record of this, my first, valiant attempt...

Getting Ready


Some tools To start with, what do I think I'll find useful to get going? Well, some tools of course. Nothing too fancy, a couple of pairs of pliers, a craft-knife sharp enough to trim a good chunk of flesh off a finger (allegedly), a good sharp pair of scissors, a pencil, a couple of brushes and a trusty assistant, in this case one of my cannon-I suppose might be a little less common
The vernier-callipers are one item that I suppose might not be so common to many people, but I've owned a pair for years and find them extremely useful. Uses range from simply being able to "lock" a measurement such as the height of a row of bricks, marking consistent distances into something, or using the depth-gauge integrated into the end of it to stop me digging out of the back of a model by mistake.
I also use a few other bits and pieces (not shown), such as a pair of tweezers, a generous quantity of PVA glue, water, and a set of acrylic paints, in my case Citadel.


For the actual construction, I'll be using some random pieces of polystyrene that used to be packaging for an old toy of some sort and a sheet of card. No idea what weight the card is, but it's about 1.5mm thick. The card I bought from a craft-shop, but I guess any old card will do - we're going to be painting everything anyway.

The Form Takes Shape


001-holding_it_all_together-b.jpgWell, this ugly little contraption is the start of it all. The polystyrene packaging I had lying around had some convenient shapes to it, and I then used the knife to (oh-so-carefully) chop and hack bits of it away to get a kind of shape I liked the look of.


This is the first point at which I started getting an idea of the final form - when working with pre-formed bits you're kind of limited to the medium a little bit. If you're using foam of some sort, you can of course carve any shapes you like.


I then used super-glue to start sticking bits together. When this caused my polystyrene to pop and fizzle into a sticky mess, I hastily reverted to the trusty PVA glue instead. It takes a lot longer to dry of course, so I taped the whole thing up with some electrical tape I had lying about. Anything less sticky than full-on Sellotape should be fine, so use masking tape for example. (Standard sticky-tape could be so stick as to leave tracks when you pull it off the polystyrene later.)


Once I'd decided which parts of my model would be stone walls, which would be virgin rock, and which paved, I used a brush to mark out some areas with a black-ink wash. This was really more to help visualise what was going to go where than any actual contribution to the final appearance, but getting some paint on the polystyrene at this stage should help prevent white spots later on.


003-patching_the_cracks.jpgOne other thing I did before continuing with the construction is to use some Milliput (like Green Stuff) to fill in some of the joins in the polystyrene. This will probably need refining (or more likely digging out again) later, but I thought it might be worth getting rid of some of the more obvious artefacts.

The Bricklayers Arrive


Well, I hear that Dwarves prefer metal to anything else, but there are a few that can turn their hand to masonry, and they soon turned up at the scene.


002-walls_taking_shape.jpgI now cut a few strips of card, about 12mm or so wide, and then chop those up into what I hope will look like large stone blocks. I just nip the corners off too, to make a bit of space for mortar or something. In hindsight, this last step might have been a mistake, as the closer-fitting brickwork I build later looks better. Perhaps the big walls were build by Orcs or something - Dwarves would be much neater.


004-more_wall.jpgI start to glue the bricks onto the where the walls will be, using a fairly predictable "brick wall" arrangement. In this case I carry the pattern all the way around the back of the model, although if you're going to be mounting it in a display-case it might be okay to miss out some of the detail around the back.


There wasn't a huge amount of genius involved here, I just created a pile of bricks the same size, and stuck them on one-by-one all around the model. I used bricks about 1½ times longer than normal for the corners, to represent the fact that you're seeing two sides of the same brick here.


A small note is that the PVA glue I'm using here is always watered down about 5:1, which makes it a lot easier to evenly apply with a brush.

Carry the Cannon Up The Stairs?


005-beware_the_door-b.jpgFor some odd reason even my Slayers refused to carry a large cannon up some old steps carved into the mountain. What was called for here is a doorway leading to the grand interior of the Dwarven fortress buried in the mountain.


I used the Scalpel Of Finger Slaying to cut the outline of a doorway into the recessed part of the model, making sure not to cut right through the beautiful brickwork at the back. Another point of note here is that when cutting polystyrene, especially the type used in packaging (With the ~5mm pea-sized particles), is that if you cut with a simple single-stroked slashing motion, you'll most likely end up just pulling out chunks of polystyrene. Use a very short-stroke sawing or stabbing motion to ensure a nice smooth cut.


006-the_darkness.jpgOnce I had an outline of the doorway, I used a pair of tweezers and a pointed file to pick out the bits of polystyrene I wanted removed. The cellular nature of the poly made this pretty easy.


The next few stages were really just to fill in the gaps of my impatience, as you can see I didn't finish the bricks before starting on the door...


I finished the rows of bricks all the way around, and also painted the "interior" of the doorway black.

Call that a wall?


007-some_bricks.jpgThe doorway looks a little sad there, all plain and unadorned, so I called in some proper skilled Dwarven masons this time, instead of the lazy fools that build the big walls.


I made a card template to fit the gap nicely - the callipers help immensely here for measuring awkward gaps - and then cut much smaller strips of card for course of smaller bricks. These I stuck onto the card template, which makes it much easier to get a neat finish than if you're trying to stick individual bricks onto polystyrene.


On top of these bricks, I then stuck some slightly rounded pieces to indicate an arch and keystone.


The whole arrangement could then be slotted neatly into the gap.

008-masonry_installed-b.jpg


Off the Rails


Of course the poor Dwarves can't be expected to push a big heavy cannon towards a precipice like this unassisted, so they built a track for it to roll along on.


For this I used a short section of standard Hornby rail track, which seems to be almost a perfect size for the wheels of my cannon. I spruced it up a little bit, so using a layer of Tin Bitz paint over all the brackets and sleepers (Dwarves aren't going to use wood, are they!), followed by some Burnished Gold for the fittings. This made the track look nicely metallic. I also re-painted the rails in something silvery (Mithril I think) as they'd been sitting in my shed for about 20 years (damn, that hurt to write down!) and so had lost a bit of their shine.

009-off_the_rails.jpg


~~Interlude~~


That's all I've done so far. Check back soontm for the next instalment...

Last Updated on Friday, 24 August 2007 17:16
 
PDF Print E-mail

Compaq ML350I posted recently (okay, very recently) about installing Ubuntu on a Compaq ML350 . Now these were lovely servers for their time, but DAMN they are noisy. Here's how to tame the turbines using Compaq's HPASM...

Stop Those Fans Please!


The very first thing I need to install on this machine is some control over the fans. Otherwise I'll soon be trying to throw this box out of the window, and trust me - it's heavy enough for you not to want to try that.

 


The piece of software that's required to achieve this is called "hpasm", and was created by HP/Compaq. They only released this for SUSE Enterprise and Red Hat Enterprise Linux, as they are the only supported platforms. Luckily some nice people have created a small script to make this work with Ubuntu. I followed the instructions from this debian.catsanddogs.com article.


There are a couple of supporting packages needed to get this to work, so first


  • Alien [alien] - this also has a heap of dependencies, I just let apt-get fetch those for me.

  • SNMP Daemon [snmpd] - this is required for SNMP

  • TCL [tcl8.3]

  • Fakeroot [fakeroot]


Now get the package:
sudo apt-get install alien snmpd tcl8.3 fakeroot

 



wget http://debian.catsanddogs.com/component/option,com_remository/Itemid,27/func,download/id,3/chk,d2e6221937161729fe5233713e593047/


This downloads the package, but garbles the name. Rename it back to what it should be, I use [tab] completion (just press tab where indicated ;)

 


Also note that there is a newer version of HPASM than that fetched by the script, so you can try looking in ftp://ftp.compaq.com/pub/products/servers/supportsoftware/linux/ for the latest version, and editing the .sh file to get that version instead. I've not tried that myself.

mv com_[tab] HPasm-rpm2deb-sarge.sh.gz

 



gunzip HPasm-rpm2deb-sarge.sh.gz



sudo sh ./HPasm-rpm2deb-sarge.sh


Now install the HPASM package:
sudo dpkg -i hpasm_7.4.0-56_i386.deb

One problem with Ubuntu 7.0.4 and this version of HPASM is that it just doesn't work with dash. The scripts expect /bin/sh to mean sh. This can be fixed by re-linking sh to sh, instead of dash. (Thanks to a post by Aleksandr for this)
sudo su -

 



cd /bin



rm sh; ln -s bash sh



exit


Now run the configuration
sudo hpasm activate

I answered as follows:

  • Do you wish to continue even though they may taint the kernel? yes

  • Do you require SNMP agents? yes (I'll be using Cacti to monitor this machine later)

  • Do you require storage agent support? no

  • Do you require performance agent support? no

  • Localhost read/write community string: [mystring]

  • Localhost read community string: [myotherstring]

  • Everything else I left blank or defaults


After the last question, silence reigns again! Well almost.

 


Reboot, just to make sure everything stays silent. (I know, that's a very Windowsy attitude, but I figure that with something low-level like this, a reboot can't hurt even on Linux ;-) )

Last Updated on Thursday, 25 February 2010 09:39
 
PDF Print E-mail

Well, I've not been miniature-painting long, but I've found that photographing them (with the threat in mind of getting them rated at CMoN) seems to help spot improvements. I used to use a Canon Digital Ixus 430 for this, a very nice and affordable 4 Megapixel camera with an effective macro mode, and was generally pleased with the results. (The pictures were better than my painting anway!) Lighting was always my main problem as I am restricted to night-time photography due to working, causing me to see sunlight about 3 times a year. It seems that a single 60-Watt (slightly yellow) bulb hanging from the ceiling isn't all that good for macro photography. I generously treated myself to a daylight-bulb and put this in a bed-side lamp. It also seems that a 60W bulb a couple of inches from a plastic-and-polystyrene model isn't all that good for macro photography. I then discovered (thanks to my ever-watchful bargain-hunter father) that the electrical/electronics retailer Maplin are selling a Portable Soft Lighting Studio for a meager £9.99, and also a rather nifty camera-stand for just £9.99! The advantage of the stand is that you can get the camera lower than with a traditional mini-tripod, and I can also attach a flourescent lamp to it, solving the illumination problem. (The lamp is a modular affair from B&Q, where you buy a plug-block that has 6 special sockets on it, into which a range of lights can be attached. I've thrown the packaging away, so can't give details. Have a look in-store for their chav-tastictm range of cheap lighting.) I also upgraded the camera to an 8 Mega-pixel Kodak EasyShare C875.

Portable Soft Lighting StudioSoft Lighting Foldable Photo StandStand In Action

Last Updated on Tuesday, 11 September 2007 23:28
 
<< Start < Prev 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Next > End >>

Page 9 of 11